Photo: Nigel Morton and half of his town’s 500 residents have diabetes. (ABC News: Chris Kimball) Remote, rubbish-strewn red dirt with crowds of feral dogs and donkeys. A few dozen houses in a sea of desert mulga scrub, where modern life meets lore and tradition. Welcome to Ampilatwatja. Ampilatwatja dogs Ampilatwatja is in central NT Like an outback Pied Piper in his distinctive bright red shirt, Nigel Morton is followed by clusters of grandkids, nieces and nephews as he takes his daily stroll around the town that sits on his people’s traditional land, about 300 kilometres down a rutted dirt road north-east of Alice Springs. Checking an app on his phone, Mr Morton is trying to keep up his daily step count — a modern challenge in a tiny town for a man walking in two worlds. He is the elder responsible for traditional lore, including initiation and retribution. […]